Looking for scout class tips.

StLunaticNick · May 8, 2018 4:27PM

I am currently maxed out with the scout class at level 50 but this is due to just grinding it out. Im actually a pretty terrible scout as far as sniping goes. I cant hit anything. I can spot and pop flares just fine but my sniping sucks. I stick to infantry and carbine variants of the scout weapons but struggle with the marksman variants. Not sure I quite understand the dynamics of the scout class.

For example... I will set my range to 75m on a rifle but miss completely at targets further away even when I believe my sights are dead on. So I will adjust my sights to 150m or 300m and still miss even if the target is further away. Sometimes I get the kill but more often than not i miss, which is why I typically stick to the infantry and carbine variants of the scout class weapons and engage at close or medium range. Any tips from players who are scoring long distant kills with the scoped variants of the scout class or how to properly set the range of the sights for particular targets? Like, will setting my sights at 300m be acceptable at taking targets out at 200m? Scout class is my weakest class so trying to improve on it whenever I do run the scout class. Any insight will be appreciated.

CS-2107 · May 8, 2018 4:35PM

I would give you the tip, to not adjust your weapon distance. keep it on 75 meters and once you get used to that you wont have trouble landing your shots even at range. I would also say the scout is not necessarily a sniper. Be only a little behind your team, put them some useful flares down and your ingagements will be at 20-100 meters.

Gforce81 · May 8, 2018 4:50PM

I do change the "zoning" for my rifles, I feel it helps me land shots more consistently. I generally go to the closest range level, without over passing the range

For example, if you have an enemy at 200 meters, I would zone the sights for 150 and see how the shot goes. If you have time for a 2nd shot, if the first misses, you can elevate your own aim a tiny bit to find that spot that'll work

I don't have much advice for the scoped variants. I don't use them very much. Much more prefer Irons. It feels like the extra zoom that scopes offer actually hurt more than they help. I almost feel like I would need to alter my deadzone and sensitivity settings to play much with scopes

A shot that would require a nice smooth, even pull of the analog with irons; I do the same maneuver with a scoped weapon, and I'm waaaaaay over shooting my target. Like the extra zoom is helping me overshoot a target when I aim for it. Like I'm overly sensitive.

Since I can manange 300+ meter shots with ironsights anyways, I don't really see any point in using anything with a scope.

DallyEnderLlama · May 8, 2018 4:55PM

My advice: try playing TDM with a scope to aid your reaction times, and be ready for your shots to phase through opponents.

StLunaticNick · May 8, 2018 4:55PM

CS-2107 wrote: »

I would give you the tip, to not adjust your weapon distance. keep it on 75 meters and once you get used to that you wont have trouble landing your shots even at range. I would also say the scout is not necessarily a sniper. Be only a little behind your team, put them some useful flares down and your ingagements will be at 20-100 meters.

Thank you... what about the long distant shots? Say I'm on Fao Fortress and trying to nail the scout on the Fortress wall at Objective E from objective D. Should I keep the sights at 75 meters and just compensate or should I adjust the distance?

stiII_no_name · May 8, 2018 5:00PM

I don't think I've ever used that feature; leave it at 75m. Bullet drop in BF1 is minimal. Just try to adjust; for most weapons the muzzle velocity is so high that you don't have to lead by a lot.

And give up the idea that you can be super precise >200m. There's a lot coming into play, players stopping, changing directions, running over weird terrain, you name it.

StLunaticNick · May 8, 2018 5:07PM

Gforce81 wrote: »

I do change the "zoning" for my rifles, I feel it helps me land shots more consistently. I generally go to the closest range level, without over passing the range

For example, if you have an enemy at 200 meters, I would zone the sights for 150 and see how the shot goes. If you have time for a 2nd shot, if the first misses, you can elevate your own aim a tiny bit to find that spot that'll work

I don't have much advice for the scoped variants. I don't use them very much. Much more prefer Irons. It feels like the extra zoom that scopes offer actually hurt more than they help. I almost feel like I would need to alter my deadzone and sensitivity settings to play much with scopes

A shot that would require a nice smooth, even pull of the analog with irons; I do the same maneuver with a scoped weapon, and I'm waaaaaay over shooting my target. Like the extra zoom is helping me overshoot a target when I aim for it. Like I'm overly sensitive.

Since I can manange 300+ meter shots with ironsights anyways, I don't really see any point in using anything with a scope.

I'm with you I feel the scoped hurt more than they help. I will have my cross hairs dead on and still miss. Thanks for the tips!

xxDicemanxx · May 8, 2018 5:09PM

for scoped scout rifle you need to to turn down the scope sensitivity to about 80 to 95 then turn your solider sensitivity to 70 to 90's find a side arm that works for you (frommer bodeo m1911 or mle) never adjust the zeroing because it a wasted motion when you have someone in your sight. until you are able to kill them without a second use the object they are closest to as a reference point. if for engaging anyone a 200 meters keep it set to 75 and compenstate a half inch above their heads . also dont ADS for longer than 3 seconds, use you own eyes to spot them first before trying to zero in and descope after every shot to take in what else is going on around you.

mikeeeh · May 8, 2018 5:13PM

Don't stand still ever.

Don't go prone ever.
Don't zero your scope, stay at 75m. If you're sniping over 100m, stay zoomed in until you see where your bullet lands, then adjust accordingly.

StLunaticNick · May 8, 2018 5:28PM

Thank you all for the great tips. Like I said I'm terrible with the scout class haha. So all this information is much appreciated. You all have great stats as well. If any of you ever need cavalry class tips get at me

KriZ_Rul3Z · May 8, 2018 5:38PM

Join a low-ping server.
Slightly lead your shots on moving targets.
Don't change range, if you aim for the head and hit the body, you'll learn to aim a bit higher at range. Body shots are fine to start.
Do a wiggly dance when you're not shooting.

ZumbiSnatch · May 8, 2018 5:38PM

Use cover, peak and spot all of which will help you when sniping at long ranges. Always move when trying to find targets. Once you spot a target stop and scan for other threats before taking the shot then repeat all the other steps.

Sixclicks · May 8, 2018 5:48PM

When sniping at long ranges, I always adjust my range relative to the distance of my target. Learning the distances on the fly takes practice, but you can get a good idea of your range to your target by looking at the location of a nearby objective since you can see how far away the objective is from you. Eventually you want to get to the point that you can estimate it without looking at a nearby objective. It helps to always use the same magnification.

Zeroing your rifle to one of the 3 ranges means your bullet will land dead center on your crosshair on a target that's exactly that distance away from you. So if they're exactly 300 meters away and you have your zero set to 300 meters, then you can put your crosshair directly over the enemy and it will hit dead center. If your target is 250 meters away and you're set to 300 meters, your shot will fly slightly high. Meaning you'll want to aim below their head to get a headshot. If your target is at 350 meters and you're set to 300 meters, your bullet will fly a little low. Meaning you'll want to aim slightly above their head.

A lot of people stay zeroed on 75 meters at all ranges. If you're familiar enough with your rifle you can just learn how high you need to aim above a target at any range without worrying about re-zeroing your rifle. But if you learn how to take advantage of the different zeroing ranges, it'll make long range headshots much easier imo.

I keep mine at 75 meters by default since most engagements are well within a reasonable range for a 75 meter zero. Even at 150 meters the drop with a 75 meter zero isn't too bad. Although zeroing to 150 meters will still make it easier. I always re-zero for 300+ meters though.

mikeeeh · May 8, 2018 5:53PM

SugarDNick30 wrote: »

Thank you all for the great tips. Like I said I'm terrible with the scout class haha. So all this information is much appreciated. You all have great stats as well. If any of you ever need cavalry class tips get at me

Use the cavalry as a recon unit with a massive health pool.
-
Don't waste your horse by charging at massive groups of enemies trying to get the odd sword kill. Use your rifle and pick off the dudes laying prone, then head backwards to heal yourself and your horse.
-
Use annoying(for the enemy) in-and-out tactics to harass them and take the heat from your team mates. The only thing you have to worry about is Tanks > Rocket guns > Bipod LMG in that order.
-
Don't be afraid to solo tanks, especially the big cumbersome ones like the Heavy, Landship and Assault tanks. When it comes to the Light Tank and Arty Trucks, zip in, hit with 2 nades then snake away until your nades are back, then repeat.
-
TLDR; Harass the enemy with your rifle, harass tanks with your nades, keep your horse healed up by never spending too much time in a group of enemies and NEVER use the **** spear.

Imabaka70 · May 8, 2018 11:01PM

Sixclicks wrote: »

When sniping at long ranges, I always adjust my range relative to the distance of my target. Learning the distances on the fly takes practice, but you can get a good idea of your range to your target by looking at the location of a nearby objective since you can see how far away the objective is from you. Eventually you want to get to the point that you can estimate it without looking at a nearby objective. It helps to always use the same magnification.

Zeroing your rifle to one of the 3 ranges means your bullet will land dead center on your crosshair on a target that's exactly that distance away from you. So if they're exactly 300 meters away and you have your zero set to 300 meters, then you can put your crosshair directly over the enemy and it will hit dead center. If your target is 250 meters away and you're set to 300 meters, your shot will fly slightly high. Meaning you'll want to aim below their head to get a headshot. If your target is at 350 meters and you're set to 300 meters, your bullet will fly a little low. Meaning you'll want to aim slightly above their head.

A lot of people stay zeroed on 75 meters at all ranges. If you're familiar enough with your rifle you can just learn how high you need to aim above a target at any range without worrying about re-zeroing your rifle. But if you learn how to take advantage of the different zeroing ranges, it'll make long range headshots much easier imo.

I keep mine at 75 meters by default since most engagements are well within a reasonable range for a 75 meter zero. Even at 150 meters the drop with a 75 meter zero isn't too bad. Although zeroing to 150 meters will still make it easier. I always re-zero for 300+ meters though.

Correct and I might add pick a rifle you like and stick with it. It took around 5000 kills with the m1903 sniper till I was able to judge the distance and make a quick fairly accurate shot. Now with almost 13k kills out to 200m I can just pretty much know by feeling where I need to aim and how much up on the cross hairs I need to place above their head.

StLunaticNick · May 9, 2018 12:30AM

Thank you all for the great tips. Like I said I'm terrible with the scout class haha. So all this information is much appreciated. You all have great stats as well. If any of you ever need cavalry class tips get at me

mikeeeh wrote: »

SugarDNick30 wrote: »

Thank you all for the great tips. Like I said I'm terrible with the scout class haha. So all this information is much appreciated. You all have great stats as well. If any of you ever need cavalry class tips get at me

Use the cavalry as a recon unit with a massive health pool.
-
Don't waste your horse by charging at massive groups of enemies trying to get the odd sword kill. Use your rifle and pick off the dudes laying prone, then head backwards to heal yourself and your horse.
-
Use annoying(for the enemy) in-and-out tactics to harass them and take the heat from your team mates. The only thing you have to worry about is Tanks > Rocket guns > Bipod LMG in that order.
-
Don't be afraid to solo tanks, especially the big cumbersome ones like the Heavy, Landship and Assault tanks. When it comes to the Light Tank and Arty Trucks, zip in, hit with 2 nades then snake away until your nades are back, then repeat.
-
TLDR; Harass the enemy with your rifle, harass tanks with your nades, keep your horse healed up by never spending too much time in a group of enemies and NEVER use the **** spear.

Hahahahaha thanks for the cavalry tips brotha but did not need them. I'm a beast with the horse Mikeeeh. I was saying if any of YOU need cavalry tips to let me know. I will actually disagree and recommend the lance every time. It's range is better and with practice it is the best choice. It's also the best for taking down other cavalry foolish enough to take me on head-to-head. Tanks are nothing and I usually always beat tanks 1-on-1 on horseback. Have even nailed a couple planes. it's the arty trucks that are the most lethal to horses in my opinion. Everything else usually loses against me on horseback. Will agree AT rockets can spoil the fun for cavalry.

Looking for scout class tips.

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